My first visit to Che Fico was for a birthday celebration. Multiple desserts were ordered, and I knew it wouldn’t be a one-and-done restaurant. There is so much to love about Che Fico. The atmosphere likely at the top of the list. It’s a fun place, with so so so much energy. This restaurant could exist in many different cities across the globe and be successful. Italian cuisine in the U.S. is its own can of worms. There are so many dishes that are celebrated and always will be, but have little to do with their Italian origins. It’s the constant struggle between Red Sauce America and Tradition. All it takes is a single visit to Italy to see the differences. Che Fico brings a whole new flavor to what “authentic Italian cuisine in America” tastes like. However, where Italy shines bright with consistency - I’m not sure I can say the same about Che Fico. Every time I have visited, it’s been a different experience. The most recent visit, I felt slightly underwhelmed. Was it because it’s not shiny and new anymore? Because I’ve experienced its step-sister, Alimentari, downstairs? Or maybe because I had so many other great dining experiences recently that boil it all down to the sentiment of being unimpressed? I’d hate to assume it’s because of this late summer in San Francisco, and I am just craving fall and ready for the change and quietness but stuck in the heat and agitation of a delayed season?

Things that still remain at Che Fico: fantastic cocktails, an environment so loud I can hardly hear myself, and overconfident seasonality. I always look at the dessert menu first, so I can plan in advance, yet this time around I don’t even want to save any belly space. I overheard a server saying “the culture here has changed a lot” and “we are in a transitional period.” While I can understand this sentiment, especially with the coming of a new season, a fantastic restaurant shouldn’t experience this. It should remain so constant that either every experience is familiar and the flavor won’t change in 10 or more years, or so different that every return is entirely new.

It seems like lately, when I ask for recommendations, “your favorite right now,” has turned into “what is the most seasonal and highest priced?”  Normally I love a Crudo. But this time, one bite of serrano took over the salmon, that it could have very well been previously frozen farm-raised tilapia under there. The cucumbers helped to cool it down, and I enthusiastically took a bite of the purslane… but then I was just eating grass. I felt cheated. I’d like to be impressed by the Giardiniera, but really I just love pickles. And truthfully, anyone can pickle anything and it would be pretty good. I hoped the Pizza would make up for it.

I’m not ready to give up on Che Fico. I still hold my first experience, and my many 11 pm dessert visits dearly. Maybe I just need to wait for a few seasons to pass, and maybe the restaurant needs that too.